Many people are not aware of the difference between monks and novice monks in Laos. This is completely understandable as it's hard to find a reliable reference on the subject. Most of what I've learned comes from talking to novice monks, who sometimes even contradict each other, but are still my most dependable source.

Novice monks are young boys, between the ages of eight and twenty, who temporarily commit to monkhood for a period of three months to twelve years. They shave their heads and don the orange monk robe. All Lao boys are expected to become novice monks for at least three months of their lives. By becoming novices, the boys bring merit to both themselves and their families. Many of the boys come to bigger towns from impoverished, remote farming villages with poor or nonexistent local schools. These boys  have access to a superior education in town than if they had they stayed in their small villages. Living at a temple, the boys learn to be devout Buddhists, and with time to attend school and study.  Most rural families need their sons to help for survival. The ability to sacrifice a son to temporary monkhood is a merit-gaining honor most families hope to achieve.

The novices take ten vows, a very small percentage of the two hundred-odd vows that monks must take when they make a life-time commitment. Living in small huts around a temple, the boys are expected to work, pray and study. They form close bonds with one other, as they are young boys away from their families for the first time.

The boys keep a strict routine. They awaken around five to chant ancient Buddhist prayers in Pali and to meditate together in the temples. Afterward, they straighten their robes for their daily alms-collection.You may have viewed hundreds of novices walking the streets of Lao towns early each morning, particularly in Luang Prabang. This is the ancient tradition of tak bat, wherein pious villagers rise early, prepare sticky rice to feed their novices and monks, and kneel on the street to personally donate the food. The novices and monks walk the streets barefoot, in quiet meditation, with their baskets strapped around their necks, lids ajar to receive their staff of life: sticky rice.

The novices and monks then return to their temples and clean the grounds and the buildings. During this time, villagers come to the temple to donate larger dishes of food. Around 7, a meal is made from the donated food. Half the sticky rice from tak bat is saved for the lunch meal, but the main dishes are eaten in full, as the villagers will drop more entrees off around eleven. Villagers consider feeding the monks to be a good deed, and particularly merit-bringing. Many elderly people donate food, because, according to the novices, they will soon die, and want to increase their merit as much as possible in preparation for their next reincarnation.

To show alliance with the Buddha, who ate only when necessary to emphasize the Middle Way, food is not eaten after noon-time. If a novice or monk is ill or weak, exceptions can be made. Juice, water and Milo are allowed in the afternoon. Most novices say at first it is very difficult to fast after lunch, but after awhile they readjust and no longer mind. Some novices keep snacks under their bunks, bananas or crackers or chocolate, which they eat in the evening when they get very hungry.

Novices attend primary or secondary school during the day as well as Buddhist school and many also go to "college" programs to learn English, Japanese and Chinese. When school is not in session, the monks will sometimes organize the novices to do construction. They renovate the two to four-hundred year old temples, or add new religious or housing structures. In the evening, they clean the temple grounds again and at 5:30, prayer resumes in the temple. The beautiful sound of synchronized Pali chanting permeates the dusk. In the evening, the boys attend "college" or are expected to study and meditate. It is a life with a strict routine but also free times and fun times with their fellow novices and with tourists who come to visit.

Some of the boys love to be with friends, have a schedule, not have to scavenge or toil for food, and attend school and study advanced topics like Japanese, living in the excitement of a big town, getting the chance to meet foreigners. However, other boys are miserable living the novice life. They miss their families, their villages, hate having to go to school, despise fasting and praying, and feel that they don't fit in among the other novices.

Most novice monks are very good little boys, but there are a few naughty ones. On occasion, a boy with a shaved head can be seen in normal clothes, at the disco with his non-novice friends. Or a novice will have obscene photos of girls on his phone. Yes, many novices have mobile phones. (Novices are not allowed to touch a woman and should not think impure thoughts about one either.) Some novices have even told me about watching obscene videos on the TV in the temple after their abbot has gone to sleep. (These videos can be bought in the local outdoor market, where the music CDs are sold.) These mischievous novices are in the minority, but they do remind us that novices are typical teenage boys, expected by Lao society to suppress their hormones until they leave the monkhood.

Novice monks wrap their robes differently than monks, so you can tell them apart. But while novice monks are typically younger than monks, some boys decide to become monks very young, at around twenty years old. Meanwhile, some men do not do their time as novice monks until they are older, in their twenties or thirties.

As a tourist, novice monks can be your best source of information about Lao culture and tradition. This is because many speak English, are in town, and are very curious. They have some free time on their hands and are eager to chat. So when in Laos, do not be afraid to talk to novice monks when visiting the temples; most boys will be delighted to learn about you too. Just be sure to dress appropriately, this means knee-length shorts or skirt and preferably shoulders-covered tops. Never touch the novice. Monks, undoubtedly a much better source of information, tend not to speak English and to be either much busier and/or much less interested in speaking with tourists. Show respect when speaking with novices or monks; they are an honored member of Lao society. Remember to always ask before taking a photo of a novice or a monk, to do so otherwise would be rude and intrusive.

Novice monks make up an important and fascinating part of Lao culture and tradition. But they are not the same as monks and its good to know the difference.

People are always asking me to recommend activities for their visit to Luang Prabang. Here are a few of my favorite things, although I have no doubt there are dozens of others you'll find on your own if you just explore.

Wake up around five and dress conservatively. Head out to any main street to watch the ancient tradition of alms giving, tak bat, as novice monks walk the town to collect sticky rice from villagers. Remember that this is a religious ceremony and should be treated as one. Keep far back from the alms giving, do not speak, take photographs only from afar and with unobtrusive equipment. Do not participate unless it would be spiritually meaningful for you to do so, and in that case do so only with instruction as to how to act and what to wear. It is a beautiful and unique tradition that can be easily enjoyed by watching from a distance.

Head to Big Brother Mouse, the children's book publisher, from 9-11, Monday through Saturday, to assist with casual English practice. Many teenage boys show up to practice their English with the travelers that stop in to donate their time. Read books with the kids, play games or just talk. The kids love talking to foreigners in this environment and you'll love the easy chance to interact, too. Buy a bunch of books if you can, to donate to Lao children as you travel through the country; or, donate money so the staff can bring books to Lao kids in remote villages.

Walk up to the motorbike bridge on a hot day and join the kids playing underneath in the clean, refreshing Nam Khan River. The current's strong and you can float all the way down to where the river meets the Mekong River.

Around five, head to the soccer fields on the main road to drop in to play with the locals. But watch out, these boys are serious about their soccer so you better be good!

My favorite thing to do is to head to a temple, around 5:30, when the novice monks and monks do their evening Pali chanting and prayers to Buddha. Sit quietly and unobtrusively in the courtyard with your eyes closed, meditating, or just enjoying the peaceful sound. Be sure to focus on your blessedness to be here in this wonderful environment. Try a different temple everyday, as the harmonic sound varies from temple to temple, as do the extraneous noises of the neighborhood and the beauty of the temple grounds.

Climb up Buddha's Imprint, an overlook on the side of Mt. Phousi, to chat with the novice monks who frequent this breathtaking spot, hoping for such impromptu English lessons. Learn not just about the life of a Lao novice monk but about the varied backgrounds and experiences of these young Lao men.

Stop by My Library, a wonderful library created to give kids a place to learn independently and according to their own interests and talents. Donate a camera or an educational book here. Kids can also come here to use computers to learn to type or to practice their English language skills. Spend time reading with a child or helping with their studies.

Take a boat ride down the Mekong; there are many underemployed boat drivers who'll be happy to negotiate a price with you. The massive brown river at the heart of the region is flanked by lush green jungle, tiny farming villages, and in the dry season, many islands.

Not to be missed is the food alley near the main intersection in town. The pho stand at the end of the alley is the best in Southeast Asia, better even than Vietnam, the home of pho! A new stand at the very end is selling delicious sauteed Chinese dumplings. Not to be missed are the fresh spring rolls, papaya salad, grilled chicken and fish, pickled greens, sweet soy milk. New to the alley is a young woman selling lobster-shaped bread. The alley is packed with authentic Lao foods; come here every night to try something new and don't be shy.